Confectionary Nirvana

baklava

Who knew baklava came in flavors?

The tiny squares of pastry stretch from one end of the glass case and end fourteen feet later. There are trays of baklava dripping with honey, topped with minced pistachios and covered in chocolate. Displays of Turkish delight gleam in Jello colors. The clerk at the door snips off a piece and hands one to every passerby. How can I resist?

It’s the best Turkish delight I’ve ever had. It’s moist, yet firm and chewable. A pistachio hides inside the gleaming red square, and it’s gone in two bites.

baklava

Pillows of sweetness.

The man behind the Turkish delight, Ismail Hakki Zadi, came to Istanbul in 1864 to become a moneylender. In his spare time he began making rock candy using a mortar in the basement of his shop. His son Hafiz Mustafa volunteered as a muezzin at the local mosque. Soon he started making and selling filled pastry buns from his father’s shop. They became a big success. Between 1926 and 1938, Mustafa’s concoctions won 11 medals in European competitions.

Mustafa’s fame as a confectioner spread. As the shop, Hafiz Mustafa, grew, so did his ambitions. Over the years he and his successors opened additional retail stores. Unfortunately, the outlets failed and the original store and its name passed into other hands. The current owner devotes his time to rebuilding ties with the old, traditional families lost through earlier experiments as well as welcoming new followers.

Mike and I sit down for tea and chocolate baklava. Baklava in itself is a sweet indulgence, a light pastry layered with honey and crushed pistachios. The chocolate makes it even naughtier. We have a side of tea to revive us and soon we’re ready to further explore Istanbul.

The Lezovi are visiting Istanbul, making Turkey the tenth country in their tour of Europe.

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Algerian Raiders

Dun Na Sead Castle

Reinforcements at Dun Na Sead Castle came too late.

Pirates claim a long history in Ireland as one invading horde after another — the Celts, Romans, Vikings and Normans — sailed from foreign waters to seize land, property and people. The most shocking raid occurred in 1631 when Murat Reis the Younger sacked the village of Baltimore, Ireland, and kidnapped more than 100 residents.

Reis, originally a Dutchman named Jan Jensen, began pillaging and plundering from his home port of Haarlem, where he held letters authorizing the harassment of Spanish vessels during the Dutch War of Independence. After a few months of unprofitable assaults, Reis made his way to the Barbary Coast in North Africa and used its independent ports to pick off foreign vessels, switching his ship’s colors depending upon the prey. In 1618 Barbary corsairs captured Reis in the Canary Islands and carried him to Algiers where he converted to Islam and abandoned his Christian name.

Reis’s alliance with the fierce Barbary pirates allowed him a certain amount of protection from the Turkish Sultan and the freedom to attack Sardinia, Sicily, Crete, Corsica and other island states. The range of his vessel and personal ambition seems to have had no limits. He and his crew sailed to Iceland in a raid which resulted in some salted codfish, a few hides and a handful of Icelanders and Danes.

With little cash nor treasure to show for his latest assault, Reis turned to a captive, John Hackett, and demanded information on a vulnerable site to attack in Ireland. Hackett was a Roman Catholic resident with a long hatred of the English Protestants who had seized Irish land. Moreover, he was a native son of Waterford, a town whose long feud with the people of Baltimore was legendary. Hackett naturally suggested Baltimore.

Reis ordered two ships to set sail and traveled over 1,000 miles to Ireland’s southwestern coast. The ships anchored overnight at a place called the Cove, and before dawn the pirates attacked the village, setting its houses afire, and seized 107 residents.

Hackett’s ruse had worked. His misdirection saved Waterford, and only British residents, not Irish, were abducted to North Africa where they were sold as slaves, never to be heard from again.

The Lezovi are circumnavigating Ireland, the ninth country in their tour of Europe.

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Rags to Romance

cottage orne

A fanciful place for the future Lady Glengall.

Emily Jeffereys led a hard life as a child, living on the streets of Cahir, Ireland, with her brother Richard and mother, a mendicant who winnowed corn for her family’s survival. Overnight Emily went from rags to riches to romance when rescued by a wealthy aristocrat.

When she was about nine and her brother was twelve, they were kidnapped by evil relatives who wanted to cut them out of their inheritance. Richard stood in line to become the baron and lord of Cahir Castle. The relatives spirited them to France where the boy and girl were garrisoned in an attic and faced starvation.

Meanwhile, their mother continued to fend for herself, leading a hand-to-mouth existence. She, too, did not know that she was the mother of an heir to Cahir Castle and its vast lands.

The estate dates back to the 14th century when it was awarded to the Butler clan who played an important role throughout Ireland’s history. In 1543 the family was awarded the title of Baron Cahir and the estate continued to pass from father to son. In 1786, the ninth baron of Cahir, James Butler, died, leaving the title and estate to his brother Piers who died only two years later in Paris. The barony passed next to a distant cousin, James, who died shortly afterward in the East Indies, probably unaware that he had been elevated to the peerage. His son Richard, who was scratching on the streets of Cahir, stood next in line.

By chance Mrs. Jeffereys, perhaps from Blarney Castle, heard the story of the children who had lived on the streets and suddenly vanished. She was searching for a title and suitable match for her son, also named Richard. She engaged the help of her brother Lord FitzGibbon, the Chancellor of Ireland, who issued warrants for the children’s return. Mrs. Jeffereys brought Richard and Emily back to Ireland and raised and educated them as her own. When Emily became of age, 16, Mrs. Jeffereys oversaw her marriage to her son, Richard, 17, in London.

The Swiss Cottage

cottage orne

A rustic style inside and out.

Richard and Emily became leading members of London’s high society, and Richard rose quickly through the ranks of political power. When he was about 30 years of age, Richard had the Swiss Cottage constructed as a weekend getaway for him and his bride.

It’s known as a Cottage orné, a cottage designed in a rustic style suitable for a bucolic setting, which appealed to the Irish aristocracy. Marie-Antoinette popularized the fashion at the Royal Palace of Versailles where she ordered the construction of the Hameau de Trianon. There she could escape the annoyances of her office and relax by dressing up as a peasant.

John Nash, a prominent London architect, probably designed the Swiss Cottage. It features a thatched roof that undulates over the building, and every mullioned window has a different shape. The cottage has only four rooms: two bedrooms, a music room and one other. Most likely Emily and Richard, soon to become the Earl and Lady Glengall, used the cottage during the day, escorting guests via carriage for picnics, hunting and musical performances. The cottage is perfectly sited for such entertainment, sitting on a knoll overlooking the River Suir. Below lies a placid lake and rolling pastures studded with black-and-white spotted cows.

The Lezovi are circumnavigating Ireland, the ninth country in their tour of Europe.

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Craic Not Crack

traditional Irish music

The Kilkennys play worldwide.

Music flows as thick as Irish humor in the Emerald Isle. At any place, at any time you can hear traditional Irish music pouring out of a bar or a group jamming on a street corner. You can sit in the lobby of a hostel and kick back while a foursome strums guitars, plays pipes and sings. These gatherings make up a craic — a good time, a lot of fun, a pint with friends, a night on the town. (Also known as limin’ in Grenada.)

Oddly, traditional Irish music is limited to only a couple of venues in Dublin. There’s the Cobblestone a few steps away from the Generator Hostel.  It’s a pub run by a family of musicians where every night up to a dozen artists squeeze into a dusty corner to play fiddles, guitars, drums and pipes. Gogarty’s is another pub that features local talent. As people gather in a standing room only crowd, there’s no shortage of jokes made at the expense of the Swiss, the Croatians, the Americans or whoever populates the pub that night.

In Kilkenny, Lanigans Bar & Restaurant hosts musicians every night. On Sundays the balladeers called The Kilkennys take the stage. The foursome performs recent songs by U2 as well as traditional tunes. Tonight they sang “The Old Man” at the request of a tall, square-jawed, young fellow who had just laid his father to rest. As the song faded he pulled out a white handkerchief from his suit pocket and wiped away the tears rolling down his cheeks.

The Lezovi are circumnavigating Ireland, the ninth country in their tour of Europe.

 
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Happy Greeks

church bells on Santorini

Another beautiful vista from Santorini.

The happy Greeks are far, far away from Athens where snubbing tourists is a contact sport. As the Athenians brush past, don’t expect an “Excuse me” or “Pardon.” They’re still simmering from the financial mess the country has found itself in. The only country in worse shape is Cyprus.

The natives who have been poisoned by Athens’s toxic air as well as its attitude have moved on to bluer, as in the sea, and greener, as in money, shores. Santorini.

Everyone bustles as tourist season is about to launch. Construction workers are putting the finishing touches on shelving and storefronts. Painters are splashing white everywhere. Electricians are stringing cables and pools that became green over the winter have returned to an intoxicating blue. Boxes line the brief alleys and shops that have been shut against the bone-chilling wind are coming alive once more.

Oia

Oia best captures the sunset.

A fellow with a new gelato store is looking forward to his first season. He wisely turned a long-term friendship with the owner of a similar shop in Athens into an investor in his current location. It doesn’t matter that two other shops sit on the same stretch inside the maze called Fira. Everyone loves gelato’s chill on a mercilessly sunny day.

The owner of the Blue Note Restaurant in Imerovigli has returned from Florida. He wears a burnished tan as he inspects the reopening of his eatery. The owner of Stamna, a fast food Greek joint, says the tourists will keep his crew busy until 3 a.m. when the season gets rolling. Another restaurant owner, this one from the only Mexican restaurant on Santorini, relishes the return of palefaces and jokes about the effect that Angelina Jolie’s recent purchase will have on the neighborhood.

Greek reading newspaper

The captain’s daily regimen.

Only the captain remains undisturbed. Still wearing his winter coat on a mild day, he visits the news stand and finds a quiet spot to read his daily paper.

The Lezovi are visiting Santorini, Greece, the eighth country on their European tour.

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