Where the Hell Are We?

The middle of nowhere.
©2012 Cheryl Crockett Lezovich

My sister Sharon receives an email from a Satellite Personal Tracker (SPOT) indicating our current location every time we hit the button and the satellite picks up our global positioning. Sometimes the map that pops up on the website shows that s/v Happy Times is in the middle of nowhere. I know what she’s thinking. “Where the hell are they?”

This is one of those places.

The Media Luna reefs are a group of tiny cays and submerged reefs off the Caribbean coast of Nicaragua. Media Luna itself is a barren rock on the southwest corner of the archipelago. Our exact position is 15°08.652N, 82°42.429.

We stopped here because it’s a midway point to Cayo Vivorillos. There are no other boats here. No trash. No street lights. Hell, there’s not even an island, just a reef inside an aqua blue aquarium.

This is the third most remote place we’ve ever been. Ranked solely on the chronology of our experience, the first most remote location was French Cay in the Turks and Caicos. Even then we shared the anchorage with another boat, s/v Zero to Cruising, and our friends Rebecca and Mike Sweeney. We shared cocktails at sundown and a meal of grilled barracuda that I had caught earlier in the day.

The second most remote spot was Dos Mosquisos in Los Roques, Venezuela’s Out Islands. We shared that far-flung setting with our friends the Huffords on s/v Eclipse. Among our travels, it’s one of my favorite experiences. It seemed so…out there.

There’s no one here but the three of us and Belle. It’s kind of spooky. We can look out to the horizon in all directions and see nothing but water, sky, clouds and a couple of islets.

Media Luna is so far removed that Mike and I cleaned the boat in our birthday suits without embarrassing Mikayla. She was beyond the range of our middle-aged bulges and wrinkles while exploring the reef on our kayak. Happily, SPOT doesn’t transmit images.

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Isla Providencia

A distinctive landmark.
©2012 Cheryl Crockett Lezovich

It’s no wonder that this diminutive island is called Providencia. It’s a little slice of heaven.

The harbor welcomes boats with a span of earth open like a pair of arms. On the left lies Santa Catalina, an islet offering beaches and snorkeling. On the right is the main island, heightened by a ridge featuring Split Hill, a summit with a cleft. A charming pedestrian bridge called Lovers Lane crosses Aury Canal and connects the two parts.

The small settlement of Santa Isabel bustles with families and single drivers zooming around on scooters. The commercial ferry brings cars and merchandise to the dock where cruisers tie up their dinghies. A few shops dot the main street, but there are no signs screaming “T-Shirts 3 for $10” or “Happy Hour Specials 4-6 O’clock.” This just isn’t that kind of place. The islanders have worked hard to develop zoning laws that discourage high-rise hotels and gated communities. For a touristy sun-and-sand atmosphere, head to Providencia’s sister island, San Andres.

The residents worry about environmental hazards.
©2012 Cheryl Crockett Lezovich

Many of Providencia’s 5000 inhabitants are united also in efforts to stop oil drilling, discovered on one of the local cays. Signs read, “Old Providence, Not Oil Providence” and “They Didn’t Ask What We Want.”

They refers to the decades-old dispute between Colombia and Nicaragua over Providencia and San Andres. A treaty dating back to 1928 confirms Colombia’s sovereignty, yet Nicaragua continues to pursue its claims in the International Court of Justice in the Hague. Oil drilling has already made Colombia quite wealthy, and Nicas would like some of the action. However, just as the country lost the opportunity to host an interoceanic canal, it likely will lose this fight also.

Mikayla’s first driving lesson.
©2012 Cheryl Crockett Lezovich

The best way to explore Providencia’s 17 square miles is by motorcycle or a four-wheel mule, sometimes called a Gator. We choose the latter and Mikayla has her first driving lesson in a four-wheel vehicle. A couple of missed turns require Mikayla to turn around in the middle of the paved road and an oncoming vehicle rattles her.

“Daddy, please take over.”

“No, you can do this.”

“Please!”

“You can do this, Mikayla.”

She heads off in the right direction and the ivory and brown cows grazing along the road nod their approval.

Our drive takes us on a clockwise tour of the island, and we stop at several places to view the amazing blues of the sea on the windward side. At the beach outside the bar formerly known as Roland’s, we stroll through fine sand under tall palm trees.

Our next stop takes us to a small settlement at Southwest Bay and Divino Nino, a restaurant on the beach that offers a delicious seafood platter. It arrives with all our favorite things—lobster, shrimp, two fish and the best conch we’ve ever had.

Despite its size, Providencia has many pieces of art.
©2012 Cheryl Crockett Lezovich

As we continue our tour, we find an amazing piece of art on the roadside. It’s a bus stop in the shape of a manta ray and the supporting pillar is covered with figures from the sea. Public art like this is rare and nearly nonexistent in the Caribbean islands. Few governments can afford basic health services for citizens, yet Providencia offers several examples of sculpture. The island also has well-constructed boardwalks along the sea and playgrounds.

Our final stop is Arts and Crafts Cafe which offers neither arts nor crafts. Instead Maria Delplace has popsicles made with natural juices for sale. Her shop is located in Aguadulce, a settlement of 20 houses or so and a handful of hotels that use a low-key approach to attracting tourists.

As we return the mule to the rental agency, Mikayla declares, “I don’t want to learn how to drive. There are way too many things to hit.”

Five to go.
©2012 Cheryl Crockett Lezovich

Daddy and his little girl.
©2012 Cheryl Crockett Lezovich

Frequent visitors say the best food is here.
©2012 Cheryl Crockett Lezovich

The seafood platter costs about $20US.
©2012 Cheryl Crockett Lezovich

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Man Overboard!, Part 2

My black eye is even prettier than I imagined. My left eye is about the size of a marble and surrounded by a grape-colored bruise that crosses the nose of my bridge and goes under my right eye. My lips are swollen to a lusty plumpness never seen in real life. They’re black and blue, too, as I must have bit my lips as I tumbled over the lifelines. My nose remains swollen despite multiple ice packs, and the nostrils are wider than ever. All in all, I think I resemble Miss Piggy after a long, hard night with Kermit.

I slept poorly last night. I didn’t count on that. I figured I’d be out like a rock. Instead I tossed and turned and tossed some more. I finally took a mild sleeping pill around 4 o’clock and awoke at 9:30 a.m.

Mikayla and her dad were playing cribbage when I crawled out of bed. As we held a brief postmortem, we decided that we performed the man overboard (MOB) drill rather well. I was in the water only 10 minutes. Mikayla responded quickly, immediately throwing the Lifesling into the water. She could have used more items to throw, such as cushions. Most of the ones in the cockpit don’t float.

Obviously, I was in the wrong place at the wrong time. I should have waited for Mike to secure the jib sheet before moving forward. The boat was moving too fast for him to get the sails secure, because he’d just pointed the boat into the wind. The sails were flapping as the engines moved Happy Times forward.

I would have benefited from a lifejacket, but it was a short, easy sail from the East Holandes Cays under light conditions. It didn’t seem necessary at the time.

A Facebook group that I belong to, Women Who Sail, recently discussed the MOB drill and many women participated. I can’t wait to get online again and tell my friend Carrie Butler, s/v Sanctuary, how the subject she initiated turned out in real life. No photos though. I’m not ready to show this purple mug to anyone.

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Man Overboard!

I applied a cold pack right away.
©2012 Cheryl Crockett Lezovich

I saw the jib boom swing in my direction, and I thought, “Oh, shit! I’m in the wrong place at the wrong time.” I turned too late and the boom struck me on the nose and threw me to the boat’s side. I tried to hang onto the lifelines as I wheeled over them, but the momentum was too great and I lost my grip. Happy Times whooshed by as I fell in the water.

Mike uttered a rare curse as he saw what happened and started to bring the boat under control. He had just started the engines and begun lowering the sails when I was knocked overboard. He let the sails drop completely and told Mikayla to throw the Lifesling.

I knew that I’d been hit pretty good. I didn’t know if my nose was broken or not. Blood and snot gathered above my lip and I wiped it off. Mikayla hates the sight of blood.

Mike passed me once and walked down the rear steps to grab me. The boat’s wake only shoved more water down my gullet. “Throw me something!” I yelled.

Mikayla threw a Mustang Survival Rescue Stick, but evidently she needs a lesson in throwing downwind versus upwind. The stick automatically inflated about 150’ away and sailed downwind to our friends on s/v Tevakenui who scooped it up.

Mike circled the boat again and pulled the rope of the Lifesling closer to me. I was able to swim and bob in its direction. I grabbed the line, sticking the collar under one arm, and Mikayla pulled me in. I climbed aboard and Mikayla took charge.

She quickly gave me a towel to wipe off the blood. Then she helped me out of my wet clothes and into some dry ones. She grabbed a cold pack and I applied it right away.

Michelle and Geoff of s/v Eclipse dinghied over immediately. Geoff came on board to examine the injury and offer assistance in anchoring off Green Island. Ironically, we were only a few hundred feet from our chosen spot for the night when the accident happened.

As soon as I saw Geoff, I said, “When we talked recently about practicing a man overboard (MOB) drill, this isn’t exactly what I had in mind.” He grinned.

Our crew quickly found a spot and dropped the anchor. By then Eclipse and Tevakenui also had their hooks down. Mark from Tevakenui came over, checked my eyes and decided that I didn’t have a concussion. He offered some suggestions on pain relief. Michelle came aboard, too, and offered ideas on how to care for my nose. It bled for three or four hours, and I had to keep sticking rolls of toilet paper in one nostril to keep it from dripping. At least the Crockett proboscis is still intact, though a little battered.

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Lightning Strikes

North Star the morning after.
©2012 Cheryl Crockett Lezovich

Crews from three sailboats had gathered on Dupwala—Happy Times, North Star and Kamaloha—to share cocktails and appetizers on the beach in the late afternoon. We lingered past sundown when the wind suddenly picked up and turned chilly. Lightning and thunderclouds on the horizon sent us scurrying back to our boats for cover.

Mike, Mikayla and I sat down to dinner on Happy Times around 8 p.m. when the show began in earnest. Lightning flashed all around, sometimes lighting up the entire anchorage in the Eastern Coco Bandero Cays. The wind piped up some more and the rain fell in sheets.

We had returned to the boat in time to batten down the hatches, secure laundry and release the dodger. Mike attached our water catchment system to HT’s water tank and quickly topped it off. He filled one five-gallon container after another with rain, enough to wash a few buckets of laundry and a few rounds of dishes.

We disconnected all our electronics from the outlets and shut down several breakers as the lightning continued. We left on the anchor light and VHF radio for a while and eventually turned them off at the electrical panel. Some cruisers place computers and cell phones inside their ovens for protection during electrical storms. We’ll do that next time.

Suddenly a large bolt of lightning struck, and Mikayla and I jumped a foot in the air. The anchorage lit up like Times Square, and we stepped into the cockpit to check on Happy Times and the other boats.

North Star took the hit. The bolt traveled down the mast and disappeared somewhere, but not out the through hulls, which might have sunk her. The 51’ Tayana, lying only 200’ from HT, lost its alternator and two battery chargers, which fed four banks of batteries, a voltage regulator, two chartplotters, a spare handheld Global Positioning System (GPS), single sideband radio (SSB), VHF radio and a tricolor masthead light.

As soon as the immediate danger passed, Steve appeared outside and shined a flashlight on the mast, sails and elsewhere to assess the damage. The scent of smoke hung in the air and the shards of North Star’s tricolor lay on the deck.

I tried to raise Kamaloha on the VHF to check on its status. Charlie and Maureen maintained radio silence as lightning still broke on the fringes of the anchorage. North Star overheard my call and returned it with a brief report. A British monohull lying 300 yards away saw the lightning strike and called North Star. When the lightning quit, the Brits hopped in their dinghy and headed to Steve’s boat to offer assistance. Little could be done at the time, yet Steve appreciated their concern.

North Star’s engine and generator remained in operating condition. The battery chargers, however, proved to be the greatest loss. The electric flush toilets were among many things that no longer worked. It’s a good thing they had a bucket onboard.

Steve, Kim and Tim visit Happy Times.
©2012 Cheryl Crockett Lezovich

A lightning strike never happens at a good time. Steve, Kim and 17-year-old Tim had left Manzanilla, Colombia, only two weeks ago after spending seven long months there, stuck in the boat yard as they wrangled to get the teak removed, the bottom painted and other major repairs completed. Yet in all this, there were things to be grateful for.

Moments before the strike, Kim was about to make cocktails in the blender and Steve reluctantly agreed to turn on the generator. Only when the generator is running can Tim play on his Xbox so he headed right away to his berth. At any other time Tim would be stretched out in his favorite spot in the salon, the one where he rests his feet on the mast. Made of metal.

Steve and Kim are thankful that no one was injured due to the accident. They can always replace boat parts, but not a son.

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